Bolivia is one of my favourite countries. It has a reputation which is full of violence, political turmoil and cocaine but for me the country was one stunning environment after the other, the best hiking I have ever done, superstitions and cheep food and the happy anarchy of Latin American village life. For me Bolivia began as a place to stop off on the way to Machu Pichu but in the end I delayed leaving for so long I almost missed what so many call the jewel in South Americas crown. For me Bolivia as may attractions that rival or better Machu Pichu and if I were to pass that neck of the woods again I would certainly priorities some of Bolivia's hidden treasures over Peru's mass marketed diamond. For me Bolivia felt genuine, it felt honest and it felt proud to. Evo Morales might be a derisive figure on the world stage but at the time I passed through Bolivia there appeared to be real national affection for the continents first indigenous leader. The fact that 62% of adult Bolivians class themselves as having an indigenous ethnicity gave the country an exoticism and wondrously rich culture after I arrived from a very European feeling Chile. In Bolivia I felt I could rip up the rule book and do what I liked and I always found smiling faces ready to help if going my own way didn't quite work out. Much like Caleta Tortel Bolivia just felt different and refreshing with it. Its poor, dirty and in places dangerous but I cant help loving Bolivia.